"A whole new world opened up for me through the camera, through the lens," muses Danish photographer Stine Heilmann, reflecting on a three-month sailing trip in the Caribbean. Armed with a second-hand film camera and a couple of lenses, this ignited the then 19-year-old's passion for photography.
Although many will know Stine for her striking still-life and fashion portraits, she started her photographic journey documenting everyday life. "I'm drawn to people, old faces and young faces," she explains. Stine was working in a restaurant before her life-changing trip, and owes a lot of her people skills – so vital in portrait photography – to her experience in hospitality, learning how to connect with strangers.
DOCUMENTARY / FASHION / PORTRAIT
Stine Heilmann
As a perceptive traveller and photographer, she was moved by the communities she encountered, particularly groups of women who lived and worked together. "They all help and rely on each other," she explains. "I sometimes wish I was part of that community. We don't have that kind of culture in Denmark – there's so much strength and power in it."
Specialist areas: Fashion, documentary, portraiture
Favourite kit: Canon EOS-1D X Mark III
Canon EF 85mm f/1.8 USM
Canon EF 24-70mm f/2.8L II USM
Wanting to hone her craft, Stine embarked on a five-year photography course in Copenhagen, during which she worked as an intern for advertising photographer Torsten Graae. Here, Stine immersed herself in still life and portraiture and learnt the technical aspects of photography that would enable her to flourish.
After studying, Stine worked in New York, where she had the opportunity to assist renowned photographer Annie Leibovitz and collaborated with industry icons such as Richard Avedon and Mary Ellen Mark. Under the mentorship of Irving Penn, Stine found confidence in her own approach. She greatly admired Penn's ethos: "his simplicity and his slow way of working as well as his own modest way of living," she explains. "His respect for people was beautiful. Like me, he also loved building still life pieces and creating pieces of art using all kinds of materials."
Stine is inspired by the beauty of the natural world, colour and, most importantly, people. It's often women who feature in her work and her images convey strength alongside a beautiful femininity. She is as much an artist as she is a photographer, creating headpieces and setting up photos using objects that she's drawn to. "They have to be organic and fresh," she explains. Stine likens this process to building sculptures around the female body, to enhance her subjects, and "show how beautiful, strong and powerful they are".
Was there anything stylistically that you particularly admired about Irving Penn's work?
"I'm very inspired by the simplicity of his work – white backdrops and a single light source – and particularly his flower art and his rubbish series. I find so much beauty in this kind of simplicity. He really inspired me to keep on playing with organic materials, and I've done that throughout my career."
When it comes to portraiture, how much direction do you give your subjects?
"I spend a lot of time talking to people beforehand – even if it starts with a phone conversation, I want them to feel seen and heard. When they come to my studio or I meet them on location, I tell them that I will hold their hand all the way through the session. I am genuinely curious to hear their stories. I want to know when they feel strong and when they feel fragile. If it's a business portrait, then I start by asking, 'What do you want people to see in your portrait?' I work out how much direction is needed from there."
What about for your more documentary-style portraits?
"Documentary photography is completely different. Instead of asking what they want to see, I try to get my subjects to feel totally comfortable. I also shoot a lot when people don't know that I'm shooting, because I talk a lot when I photograph. I use a lot of humour and music and I'm very active. I dance around and shake my hair. I use myself as a mirror. Sometimes, I show with my body language, in a fun way, how I want someone to pose."
What would be your advice to someone who wants a career in photography?
"My goal as a Canon Ambassador is to inspire people, especially young women. If it's something you want to do, you shouldn't just dream about it, you should go for it. It is a tough business, so just be prepared to work hard and always remain modest. Don't take anything for granted. Believe in yourself, play around, and keep on believing that it's possible. Be curious and talk to people, because the more positive connections you gain in life, the more opportunities will present themselves – and not from behind a screen, or through a webpage or social media, you need to be physically out there, talking to people."
One thing I know
Stine Heilmann
"How enormously grateful I am every day that I get to fulfil my passion and that my career is something I love. I don't take anything for granted, but I am proud of myself. I've raised four children, mostly alone, and I have this wonderful career. I really believe anything is possible."
Facebook: @stineheilmannphotography
Instagram: @stineheilmann
Website: stineheilmann.dk
Stine Heilmann's kitbag
The key kit that the pros use to take their photographs
Camera
Canon EOS-1D X Mark III
This tough and fast DSLR offers outstanding dynamic range and image quality, as well as uncropped 4K video. "It's amazing in low light and such a solid build," says Stine. "With this body, I always feel secure in the knowledge I can achieve what I want."
Lenses
Canon EF 24-70mm f/2.8L II USM
This high performing zoom lens is an excellent multi-purpose workhorse with a versatile focal length range. "It's sharp, and amazing to use when I need to shoot both close-up and then full-figure and I'm short on time," says Stine.
Canon EF 28mm f/1.8 USM
A wide-angle lens with a large maximum aperture, that's ideal for handheld shooting in low light. "I rarely use this lens, but when I shoot interiors, it gives me amazing results," says Stine.
Canon EF 70-200mm f/2.8L IS II USM
Ideal for low light as well as action photography. "I use this lens a lot when I shoot people in nature, or on location," explains Stine. "It can bring me really close and achieve beautiful background blur." Now succeeded by the Canon EF 70-200mm f/2.8L IS III USM.
Canon EF 85mm f/1.8 USM
With a large f/1.8 aperture, this neat telephoto lens is ideal for portraits, and especially handy when travelling light. "It's an amazing portrait lens," says Stine. "It has a softness yet sharpness at the same time."
Canon EF 100mm f/2.8L Macro IS USM
A macro lens with image stabilisation that sets new standards for performance and features. "I sometimes use this macro lens when I shoot portraits, flowers and botanic organic items," says Stine.
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